“Pastured” chickens are a good deal -- for the environment, your health and your pocket book – for several reasons. To see why, let’s first define “pastured.” These birds truly spend a lot of time outside in the fresh air and sun. They scratch around in the grass and clover, eating insects and plants, like chickens are wont to do, as well as whatever feed their farmer gives them. The feed may include fruit or veggie scraps, but is usually corn. (Pasturing also helps the farmer rid his or her pastures of insect pests, as the chickens happily gobble them up. The birds also act like mini-tillers, loosening the soil.)
Defining “Pastured”
While the term "pastured" isn't defined by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), it is generally understood that the animal or bird that is “pastured” is actually on a green pasture, outside, for a significant period of time. One may assume the pasture has not turned to a brown dusty paddock. It may seem facile to spell that out, but this is an important point: the time foraging outside is what differentiates “pastured” from “free-range.”
“Free-range” chickens, as defined by the USDA, must only have "access to the outside." Thus, free-range chickens may have the option to go outside. But, if their feed is inside, and their outside area is not desirable pasture, they inevitably remain inside. (For more on definitions such as "free-range," see the USDA site
http://www.fsis.usda.gov/Fact_Sheets/Meat_&_Poultry_Labeling_Terms/index.asp.)
Pastured chickens may or may not be certified organic. This designation depends on the rules of organic certification. Some pastured chickens, however, live on a certified organic farm but are not certified organic, usually because they receive some conventional feed. If any of these points are unclear to you with respect to the chicken you are buying, ask the farmer!
Defining Broiler vs Roaster vs Stewer
Chickens are also known as broilers, fryers, roasters, stewing chickens and more. Official definitions of these terms can be found at http://www.fsis.usda.gov/Fact_Sheets/Chicken_Food_Safety_Focus/index.asp, but typically, broilers or fryers are slaughtered around 7 weeks; roasters are a matter of months old when they’re ready. Stewing chickens, on the other hand, are older birds.
While the USDA notes that a stewing hen may be “up to one and a half years old,” I know a farmer who keeps his hens for more than three. It’s easy to imagine why these muscular birds, which have been running around for years, need to be cooked for several hours in a stew or soup. It’s worth it, though, because their flavor can be outstanding. They are a perfect excuse to make any stew or “ethnic” meal, such as a chicken in peanut sauce, or an Indian dish based on chicken.
While these definitions are widely used among farmers, I have nevertheless seen them mixed up. The easiest way to clarify is simply to ask your farmer how old his or her birds were at slaughter. Also, since the general term “chicken” is so prevalent in the English language – unlike some other languages, which differentiate their types of “chicken” more precisely -- you can’t automatically know if the meat came from a hen or rooster. So if you’re wondering if the stewer was a rooster, ask that too.
Pastured Chickens Go a Long Way
Pastured birds are good for your pocketbook, even if the price is initially higher. They are especially tasty, and have a lot of tender meat (as long as they’re not the old stewing hens) and relatively little fat. This becomes really obvious when you’re making broth. Also, they are not injected with salt water like many store-bought birds, so you’re not paying for extra water weight.
As a result, pastured chickens can be stretched for more meals than a similar store-bought bird. Kristi, for example, routinely finds that one roughly 7-pound pastured chicken (a.k.a. “roaster”) can be the main attraction for up to five meals for a family of four, and, yes, with folks eating ample portions. This includes one main meal based on the initial roasting; enough sliced or diced meat for sandwiches, salads and/or pasta toppings; and broth for substantial soups.
The broth is key, because broth from a pastured bird doesn't compare to broth from a conventional, or even store-bought "free-range" bird. It is much tastier, richer, and makes a better base for the next meals.
Kristi’s Tips on Preparing Pastured Chickens
Roast it as soon as it’s home. That's always the first, main meal based on the chicken. Then, remove the remaining meat – and there is usually a considerable amount, even with the kids eating big portions – and prepare a broth with the bones. A significant amount of meat won't come off the bones, either, until after the bones have been simmered for several hours. I go through and make sure nothing goes to waste. The broth serves as a base for one, or maybe even two, soups, which can then be a couple of workweek dinners, or the major part of a dinner or weekend lunch for the family, depending on how much you eat. Also, I either slice the remaining meat for sandwiches, or dice it to make chicken salad, or to include in a pasta meal.
Thinly sliced roasted chicken tastes great on a sandwich, with hummus, or avocado, or tomato, or lettuce, or plain old ketchup. Diced chicken can also be added to vegetables sauteed in garlic and olive oil, or it can bulk up some pasta with tomato sauce sprinkled with pine nuts and parmesan. The leftover chicken can also be added to a veggie stir-fry with a little soy sauce. The possibilities are endless. But the key is to use the meat in the few days following the roast. Beyond that, if you know what to do with the gizzards, you’re even further ahead! (I confess to ignorance on this. If you have gizzard suggestions, let me know!)
Comparing Pastured Chicken Prices
To get a better idea of how some of the area farms stack up on chicken prices, check out the following price comparison chart here, with per pound prices in December 2006:
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Eberly’s, Stevens, PA (certified organic, “free-range,” at My Organic Market) $3.19
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Good Fortune Farm, Brandywine, MD (pastured, on-farm or delivered) $2.50
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Rainbow Acres, Kinzers, PA (pastured, delivered to a drop-point) $3.00
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Springfield Farm, Sparks, MD (pastured, on-farm or delivered) $2.75 to $3.25
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Zook’s Organics, Christiane, PA (pastured, delivered to a drop-point) $2.50
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